How to identify good and bad chocolate

Humans have been captivated by chocolate for centuries, with 91% of American women having chocolate cravings, as per a 2006 study. However, not all chocolate is the same. In this episode, chocolate expert Spencer Hyman and Prof. Sarah Berry delve into the world of cacao, discussing the factors that differentiate good chocolate from bad and how to control the impulse to binge.

Spencer explains the process of crafting chocolate in six steps, taking us from bean to bar. Sarah shares her research on the health benefits of chocolate, focusing on fiber, flavanols, and theobromine. They also explore the debate surrounding the connection between chocolate and heart health.

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For more information, follow ZOE on Instagram, and share your feedback or suggest topics for future episodes. Transcripts of episodes are available online. Join ZOE Science & Nutrition for a journey into scientific discovery with expert insights on improving health through research. Good chocolate is generally roasted, winnowed, ground, conched, tempered, and sometimes has sugar and milk added before being turned into bars. This is the process for making good chocolate, but there is an alternative method as well.

Dark chocolate, milk chocolate, and white chocolate have different ingredients and inclusions. Milk chocolate consists of cocoa beans, sugar, and milk powder, while white chocolate is made using cocoa butter, milk powder, sugar, and sometimes other flavorings. Cocoa butter is the key ingredient in chocolate and is found inside cocoa beans along with cocoa mass or cocoa solids.

The process of making cocoa butter for cosmetics involves roasting the beans at high temperatures, removing the shell, and squeezing them in hydraulic presses to extract the butter. This method is commonly used in making chocolate products like biscuits and cakes, but it may damage some of the health benefits found in chocolate.

There are varying health benefits associated with different types of chocolate due to the presence of polyphenols, theobromine, and fiber. Epidemiological studies have shown that increasing chocolate intake can reduce blood pressure, type 2 diabetes, and cardiovascular disease. However, grouping all types of chocolate together in these studies may not provide accurate results. Are there differences in health habits among individuals who consume more chocolate? Translating this information to supermarket shelves can be challenging. Jonathan Wolf and Professor Sarah Berry discuss the potential benefits of eating chocolate compared to other candies. One reason could be the fiber content in dark chocolate, which varies depending on processing methods. Spencer Hyman mentions that good dark chocolates typically contain four to seven grams of fiber. Additionally, theobromine in chocolate acts as a vasodilator, potentially benefiting moderate consumption. Professor Berry emphasizes the importance of considering the overall food matrix and different components, such as fiber and cocoa butter. Cocoa butter, which has a unique fatty acid composition similar to beef tallow, does not increase cholesterol levels when consumed. Its special structure also contributes to the pleasant mouthfeel of chocolate. Properly tempered chocolate with cocoa butter can release flavors slowly, highlighting the plant's quality and nutritional benefits. Tempering is a crucial process in the history of chocolate, with important inventions shaping its evolution. Originally consumed as a drink, it wasn't until relatively recently that chocolate was enjoyed in solid form thanks to Joseph Fry. This shift unveiled a variety of flavors that contribute to the health benefits associated with chocolate consumption.

The history of chocolate mirrors that of tea and coffee, entering Europe as a beverage. The Jesuits popularized its consumption during religious observances, leading to its widespread adoption. Concerns arose in the mid-19th century over the lack of solubility of cocoa butter, prompting the invention of the hydraulic press to extract more butter for use in solid chocolate bars.

The health benefits of chocolate are vast, with its fiber content, unique structure of cocoa butter, and bioactive compounds like flavanols and theobromine playing key roles. Research shows that these compounds positively impact blood pressure, inflammation, and cardiovascular health by enhancing nitric oxide production. The synergistic effect of flavanols and theobromine further amplifies these benefits, highlighting the importance of considering the entire matrix of nutrients in chocolate for optimal health outcomes. Therefore, there is evidence suggesting that chocolate may impact memory, as well as cardiovascular health due to its effects on blood flow. Recent studies have shown that high-quality chocolate with high flavanol content can significantly reduce blood pressure. This is attributed to the presence of cocoa flavanols, which have been linked to nitric oxide. Craft chocolate, which focuses on maximizing flavor complexity from cocoa beans, may offer additional benefits such as aiding digestion and promoting mindful eating habits. Craft chocolate is a term used to describe a specialized approach to chocolate production that prioritizes flavor complexity. They are also openly traded and handcrafted, focusing on providing flavor while working with farmers to ensure rainforest preservation, fair wages, and ethical practices. Craft chocolate emphasizes transparency and flavor, in contrast to Big Chocolate which prioritizes consistency, cost, and industrial processes, often including additives not found in homemade products. Craft chocolate uses high-quality ingredients like cocoa beans and minimal sugar, while Big Chocolate may contain palm oil, emulsifiers, and high amounts of sugar. You can also opt for dark milk chocolate, which contains some milk, or simply plain milk chocolate with a hint of milk. The ingredients used in each type of chocolate vary significantly, as well as the approach taken in their production. Mass-produced chocolate aims to maximize consumption by appealing to your taste buds with sugar, salt, and fat. This approach, known as the Dorito principle, was identified by Howard Moskowitz in the 1960s as the bliss point - a combination of sugar, salt, fat, texture, and umami that makes people unable to stop eating.

Sensory-specific satiety is another tactic used in mass-produced chocolate to encourage overconsumption by providing a variety of textures, tastes, and flavors in one product. However, this approach neglects the true essence of food, which lies in its flavor. Craft chocolate, on the other hand, focuses on the origin of the beans, the craftsmanship, and the flavor compounds present in cocoa, leading to a more mindful and savored eating experience.

The variability in chocolate, from craft chocolate to commercial brands like Cadbury or Hershey's, makes it difficult to compare them as they are essentially different foods. While some may prefer the sweetness and mouthfeel of commercial chocolate, others may appreciate the depth of flavor in craft chocolate. It is important to acknowledge the different purposes served by each type of chocolate and not demonize all processed foods. Enjoying a variety of chocolates in moderation can be a balanced approach. For those of you who may have missed it, I initially hesitated to let him come in. It's like someone telling you about their fancy wine and you admitting that you sometimes enjoy a cheap £1.99 bottle. However, Spencer seemed surprised by this. I agree that it's unfair to compare mainstream chocolates like Dairy Milk or Tony's Chocolonely to craft chocolate. The former often contain added sugars and unfamiliar ingredients, lack transparency about sourcing, and are crafted differently. But I believe that quality craft chocolates can also provide a delightful experience similar to what you described as a "bliss point." They can be flavorful, satisfying, and made in a way that benefits both consumers and farmers. I disagree that good craft chocolate cannot meet your expectations. My aim is to find a craft chocolate that can bring you the same joy.

The challenge is on, and I'm up for it. Another consideration is the price point of craft chocolates, which can be expensive. Are there retailers selling healthier chocolate options that are more affordable to a wider audience? I agree that the price of a bar may include hidden costs, especially for cocoa farmers in West Africa who are underpaid and struggling to make ends meet. Craft chocolate, while not cheap, is designed to be savored and enjoyed in smaller quantities. Brands like Taza offer unique textures and flavors, but their availability in grocery stores varies by region. In the UK, it's particularly challenging to find craft chocolates in mainstream stores due to pricing and marketing strategies. Europe may have more options, but overall, there's still a long way to go in promoting and popularizing craft chocolate like we've seen with specialty coffee or craft beer.

Now, let's move on to the exciting part of the show - transitioning from bad to good chocolate. Spencer has some tastings prepared for us, so let's dive in. I just want to clarify, when discussing large scale chocolate manufacturers, are we losing the beneficial flavanols and other compounds in the chocolate? Additionally, considering the high sugar content in many chocolates, what are the implications for health? In general, the health benefits of chocolate depend on the source of cocoa beans and how the chocolate is processed. The primary unhealthy ingredient in chocolate is sugar, as shown in clinical trials where dark chocolate with low sugar content improved blood vessel function significantly compared to white chocolate with added sugar. It is important to choose chocolate with a high percentage of cocoa solids and minimal added sugar for optimal health benefits. Craft chocolate, like the ones we are about to taste, tend to have less added sugar and higher quality ingredients, making them a healthier choice. The only distinction between the two chocolates lies in the different beans used and the varying fermentation processes. Despite both containing 30% sugar, the hope is to experience a completely different flavor profile.

Before delving further, may I suggest a quick lesson on how to properly savor chocolate? It will only take a moment.

The process involves taking a piece, sniffing it, snapping it near your ear to test the quality, and then placing it on your tongue while holding your nose shut. Suck on the chocolate with your mouth closed to experience the initial sweetness and sourness. However, to truly unlock the diverse flavors and aromas, release your nose after a count of three and breathe in and out through your mouth.

By slowing down and paying attention to the flavors, you can enhance your enjoyment of the experience, much like learning to play a musical instrument. The complexity of taste in these chocolates is truly remarkable, offering a richness that is often overlooked when consumed hastily.

Reducing the sugar content allows for a deeper appreciation of the chocolate itself, unveiling nuances that may have been missed otherwise. The concept of balance, length, intensity, and complexity (BLIC) is key to fully appreciating the flavors in any culinary experience.

In sharing this knowledge with others who may be unaware of healthier chocolate options, you are empowering them with valuable information that they are sure to appreciate. It is made with 60% cocoa and sweetened primarily with milk powder, resulting in a rich and unctuous taste. There is no other animal that can bring flavor to our mouths like a weird deer can. Flavor, along with reading the package, is a key indicator of whether a food is healthy or not. Professor Sarah Berry believes that taste testing is all about relativity and the comparison of different flavors. She has been convinced by Spencer that dark chocolate can be enjoyable and that flavor is important for health. Jonathan has also been on a journey with Spencer, starting with a sweet tooth and now enjoying 80-90% chocolate. Spencer emphasizes the importance of quality chocolate in small quantities for health benefits. Professor Berry stresses the need to consider the health benefits and price points of different chocolates, encouraging people to explore their tastes while being aware of the benefits. In summary, dark chocolate with a high cocoa percentage is best for health, as it retains the complex compounds from the cocoa bean. The polyphenols, flavanols, and fiber in chocolate contribute to its health benefits, while its fat content is neutral for cholesterol. If we were to compare it to extra virgin olive oil, it's not as good in terms of saturated fat content, but it's important to note that it's still better than some other options.

Jonathan Wolf: So we should consider having a shot of olive oil after dinner for health benefits, but if we're craving chocolate, then dark chocolate is the way to go.

There is a lot of variation in how people respond to different foods, with new studies suggesting that the microbiome plays a significant role. It's possible that some individuals may have the right gut bacteria to extract the maximum benefits from chocolate.

While white chocolate may be tasty, it lacks the health benefits of dark chocolate because it has removed some of the key components. This is why indulging in dark chocolate is preferable to mass-produced chocolate, as the latter often contains a combination of sugar, salt, and fat that makes it easy to overeat.

Spencer Hyman: Remember, don't overindulge if you care about your health and the planet.

Jonathan Wolf: Thank you both for this enlightening discussion on chocolate.

Professor Sarah Berry: Thank you, Spencer, for the delicious chocolates.

Spencer Hyman: Make sure to take them home with you, and I'll send you some more samples to find your bliss point.

Jonathan Wolf: I can't wait to enjoy them all.

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As always, I'm your host, Jonathan Wolf. Remember, the ZOE Science and Nutrition podcast is not a substitute for medical advice, so consult your doctor for any health concerns. See you next time. sentence: Please remember to bring your ID card with you.